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Refinish Teak and Holly Sole

 
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Sugar Mountain



Joined: 28 Nov 2003
Posts: 13
Location: New Hampshire

PostPosted: Tue Dec 09, 2003 9:48 pm    Post subject: Refinish Teak and Holly Sole Reply with quote

Hi!

New owner of a P31-II ... we've taken out all of the teak & holly floor boards inside to be refinished this winter (my wife loves a good refinishing job! - aren't I lucky!

When we took the boards out, there is a lot of black mold on the backside. Any ideas on how to clean? We've looked at a bunch of mold cleaners but they all indicate for non-porous surfaces ...

We plan to bring down the finish to bare wood slowly and carefully using a random orbital sander ... I've heard that the veneers are thin ...

What about stain/ varnish or urethane? Anyone know what materials/ color should be used?

We are planning on keeping one small board unfinished (until the end) to match the finish. First, the color. Anyone do a good job in matching? What color stain did you use?

Second is the urethane/ varnish. What is the right material to use??

Shouldn't be a big job but we want to do it right! Thanks and greetings from New Hampshire!
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billC



Joined: 27 May 2003
Posts: 24

PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2004 8:14 pm    Post subject: refinish teak & holly sole Reply with quote

I did mine 4 years ago. I used a varnish remover and a scraper to get the old stuff off. Then after it dried, I used an orbit sander with 100, then 150, then 180 grit to take down final finish. The venier is VERY thin. When you get to bare smooth wood, stop. Check the various finishes at Boat US. Some specifically mention that they are for cabin sole finish. Mine is gloss but I think that next time I will go for satin.

When you put the new stuff on, cut the first coat with thinner about 50/50 then after each coat is dry, use fine bronze wool or sand paper to lightly scuff the serface. Wipe the serface with a tack cloth to get all the dust off. I found that the most important key was to wipe the surface with a rag with thinner just before applying the next coat. It helps the varnish to flow out and avoid getting 'cracks' where the varnish doesn't cover.
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Sugar Mountain



Joined: 28 Nov 2003
Posts: 13
Location: New Hampshire

PostPosted: Fri Jan 02, 2004 7:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the response!

I started over the holidays and stripped about half of the boards. I did it with an orbital sander - started with coarse and then medium. I didn't do a finished sand which I would plan to do before varnishing. I took about 45 minutes per board to strip this way.

While I did stop as soon as I got to bare wood, I didn't have any problem with the thinness of the veneer - understand all the caution but to those scared off by this, I for one found it very controllable.

I bought a Spar varnish - I don't think there is any stain or other coloring on the wood - did you find it so? Also bought gloss to match the rest of the interior wood ... would rather have it just oiled teak!
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